When Tom and I started this trip, our goal was to see or do one awesome thing a day. The Fortress of Louisbourg was our awesome thing on our first day in Nova Scotia.
Our ship docked in Sydney, the largest town on the island of Cape Breton. Sydney is a good-sized city, with 31,000 people. The most significant thing about Sydney, to me anyway, is the way they welcome tourists, especially cruise passengers. There were three ships in town on the day our ship docked and the locals were out in force. There was a bagpiper playing outside the cruise terminal. All kinds of local shops lined the walkways around the terminal. Inside the terminal was the Big Fiddle Market which was basically a big arts and crafts shop, with lots of local artisans.
Tom and I were heading to the Fortress of Louisbourg, but we had an hour to explore the cruise terminal area before getting on our bus. The first shop we noticed was Murky Fathoms Forge with blacksmith Matthew Murky. A blacksmith right there on the pier! Of course we had to check out his shop and talk to him for a bit. Tom bought a leaf hook to be supportive, even though Tom can make all the hooks he wants.
Then Tracy’s Rolling Yarn Shop caught my eye. A yarn shop in a trailer right there on the pier! Of course I had to check it out and buy a skein to support having a yarn shop next to the cruise ship. There were lots of other fun and interesting stores and we looked at most of them. The reason it is called Big Fiddle Market is because it is next to the largest fiddle in the world. Selfie time!
By the time we finished checking out the shops, we needed to head back to our ship for the bus to the Fortress of Louisburg. Unfortunately, it was also time for it to rain. We had avoided rain ever since Nuuk, and the forecast didn’t call for rain, so it was a surprise. Tom went back to the ship to get our rain jackets. Unfortunately, he forgot he had to have his passport to get back on the ship. He ran back to me, got his passport, and headed for the ship again. Needless to say, we were both pretty wet before he got back. We were glad we had them, though, because it was much cooler at the fortress.
The Fortress of Louisbourg is a Canadian National Historic Site. It is a reconstructed fort built next to the site of the fort built by the French in 1744. Tom and I were there with John, our friend Chris Ferlinc and her children about thirty years ago. It hasn’t changed. The site has the same focus on living history. Everywhere we went in the fortress, we had the opportunity to talk to costumed interpreters.
The Fortress of Louisbourg wasn’t very busy so we had plenty of time to talk to the interpreters. There were also a bunch of living history volunteers from Maine who were staying in tents onsite. We started with them because they were all outside. There was a lady tatting and another making lace. A couple was chopping up zucchini for bread in the baking kettle. One man was weaving on an inkle loom and another was making pewter spoons. I bought one as my souvenir for Nova Scotia.
After talking to all the volunteers, we headed to the staff interpreters inside the buildings. There was a blacksmith with an apprentice. Several men were baking, and selling, bread. Tom and I each got a roll and had it for our “lunch.” We talked to a midwife who gave us a very good description of colonial life under the French. Not much different than colonial life under the British. Several soldiers told us about different aspects of life at a military fort. One soldier said he was always hungry. Another talked about the red uniform of an artillery officer. A third talked about the advantages of being a sergeant as opposed to a private. All of it was very interesting.
Tom and I didn’t have time to go in all the buildings. We moved quickly from place to place. The most important thing to us was talking to the interpreters and we took our time with as many as we could find. All too soon it was time to get back on the bus. As we headed out, the fog was rolling in and obscured our view of the Fortress of Louisbourg. Shades of Brigadoon. I could imagine the people at the fort also fading into the fog.
On our return to Sydney, Tom and I immediately headed for Beaver Tails. I had seen the food truck on our way out of town and talked Tom into making it part of our lunch. Have you ever had a Beaver Tail? It is a piece of fried dough rolled in sugar, similar to an elephant ear. But the Beaver Tail is then topped with all kinds of toppings. Apple pie, strawberries and cream, Nutella. All of the various toppings looked delicious. Tom chose a BrWOWnie Beaver Tail and I got Coco Vanil. Although we usually share what we buy, we were too busy eating them to share. Both of them were delicious! And messy, but fun to eat. Not a good part of your regular diet, but wonderful as an indulgent treat.
Sated after trying our new food of the day, Tom and I headed back to the ship. We only have a few more ports before our cruise is over. We are trying to make the most of them.